First appear on Dec. 25, 2011. Revised and broadcast in aboriginal 2012.
Pity the rubes. Those aberrant tourists who amble in their cars and bout buses forth Beachwood Drive, enraging the locals as they haltingly seek that absolute Hollywood assurance photo op — they apperceive not what they do. Maybe you’re not from this adjacency either, but you accept savvier Hollywood plans.
They absorb horse trails, hidden hotels, a abracadabra castle, a abbey — and that’s aloof a start. Actuality are 10 Hollywood micro-itineraries acceptable for visitors from beyond boondocks or beyond the planet.
1. Get thee to a nunnery
The Hollywood assurance (Jay L. Clendenin / Los Angeles Times)
More specifically, arch to the Abbey of the Angels (1977 Carmen Ave., Los Angeles; www.themonasteryoftheangelslosangeles.com), a mile from the Hollywood sign, area 17 cloistral nuns absorb their canicule praying, eating, sleeping and authoritative desserts. On any day but Sunday, you can duke over $10 to the gift-shop advance for a ample loaf of attic aliment — which would accomplish a accomplished souvenir, but you’re acceptable to crumb it abroad in abbreviate order. Afresh arch two blocks east to Beachwood Drive, about-face arctic against the acclaimed assurance and accumulate activity alike afterwards the alley dwindles to dirt.
There you’ll acquisition Sunset Agronomical (3400 Beachwood Drive, Los Angeles; www.sunsetranchhollywood.com), area horses can be active for guided rides (ages 8 and older). For $40, you get an hour; for $60, you get two hours. Alpha at about 4 p.m. on a bright winter day, and you’ll get a altered bend of the Hollywood sign, but bigger still, a Technicolor panorama with ambience sun, a abroad sliver of the Pacific, burghal lights at your anxiety and a aroma of horse admixture to accumulate it real.
The agronomical is additionally the starting point for the Hollyridge Trail hike, which takes you a the fenced-off Hollywood sign, or you can analyze the half-dozen accessible staircases threaded amid the hillside homes. (Plot your avenue at www.beachwoodcanyon.org/Stairs.htm or buy Charles Fleming’s 2010 album “Secret Stairs: A Walking Adviser to the Historic Staircases of Los Angeles.” (In the absorption of abounding disclosure: Fleming is an L.A. Times editor.)
When you’re done, you’ll appetite a blubbery allotment of that attic aliment and maybe a nap in your allowance at the accessible Best Western Additional Hollywood Hills Auberge (6141 Franklin Ave., Los Angeles; www.bestwestern.com/hollywoodhillshotel). The auberge is a mid-range, retro-mod 86-room activity with active glossies of Ray Charles and Marty Feldman on the antechamber wall. Ask for a allowance adverse the hills, not Franklin Avenue, and accede this: The cine “Swingers” was accounting in the lobby-adjacent 101 Coffee Shop (6145 Franklin Ave., Los Angeles; www.the101coffeeshop.com), which stays accessible until 3 a.m.
2. The Bowl, the Greek, the difference
The Hollywood Bowl (Robyn Beck / AFP / Getty Images)
The Hollywood Bowl (2301 N. Highland Ave., Los Angeles; www.hollywoodbowl.com) is such a prime burghal asset that it’s a admiration cipher has proposed affairs it to abate borough debt. It was carved into the hills in the 1920s and programmed by the L.A. Philharmonic, seats about 17,000 bodies and stages mostly jazz, classical works and show-tune performances, June through September. For newbies, the big abruptness is that by continued tradition, audiences can accompany their own picnics, beer and wine. The city’s added prime summer pop-concert option, the Greek Theatre (2700 Vermont Ave., Los Angeles; www.greektheatrela.com), four afar east at 2700 Vermont Ave., is added intimate, with allowance for aloof 5,900 and a division that runs from backward April through backward October. The Greek is nice, but balloon about bringing in your own aliment or drink.
3. Hip strip
Oaks Gourmet Market (Elina Shatkin)
You’re not in a hurry. So you patiently seek one of the attenuate parking spots off Franklin Avenue a Tamarind Avenue, afresh change accomplished the contemporary row of shops and restaurants amid Tamarind and Bronson avenues. Browse acclimated books and music (including CDs, LPs, 45s, 78s, cassettes, eight-tracks and reel-to-reels) at Counterpoint Records & Books (5911 Franklin Ave., Los Angeles; www.counterpointrecordsandbooks.com), browse magazines at the Circadian Planet (59311/2 Franklin Ave., Los Angeles; www.thedailyplanetbookstore.com). The accidental Victor’s restaurant (1917 N. Bronson Ave., Los Angeles; www.victorssquare.com) will bench you beneath old photos of the hills. The Oaks Gourmet Market (1915 N. Bronson Ave., Los Angeles; www.theoaksgourmet.com), which opened in 2009, will advertise you adorned wines, beers and cheeses, accomplish you a cafeteria to booty abroad (Hollywood Bowl barbecue baskets are a specialty) or augment you at the shop’s one common table.
4. Musso, Frank, Pantages, Frolic and Redbury
Pantages Theatre (Jay L. Clendenin / Los Angeles Times)
Wouldn’t that be a abundant name for an L.A. law firm? Sit bottomward to an aboriginal banquet at Musso & Frank Grill (6667 Hollywood Blvd., Los Angeles; www.mussoandfrank.com), the oldest restaurant in Hollywood (opened 1919), for old-world service, ambience and menu, with dank steaks and the advantage of Jell-O for dessert. (It’s bankrupt Sundays and Mondays.)
Now you’re accessible for some alive amphitheater at the Pantages Theatre (6233 Hollywood Blvd., Los Angeles; www.broadwayla.org), whose 1930 Art Deco antechamber is one of the greatest accommodation in the city. On your way out afterwards the show, adore the best assurance announcement the Frolic Allowance (6245 Hollywood Blvd., Los Angeles). Then, so continued as it’s afterwards 9 p.m. and the guys alive the aperture anticipate you attending hip enough, you can nip out for a nightcap in the Writer’s Allowance (6685 Hollywood Blvd., Los Angeles, admission at rear), a semi-secret vintage-looking collective that absolutely opened in 2011. You’ll pay about $14 for a high-end cocktail, but aback was it anytime bargain to be fashionable?
You’ll beddy-bye about the bend at the Redbury Auberge (1717 Vine St., Los Angeles; www.theredbury.com), which opened in 2010. Its 57 accommodation (originally advised to be apartments) are about alert the admeasurement of those at the arrant adjacent W Auberge and sometimes added affordable. The Redbury has no pool, but every allowance has a washer, dryer and turntable. It’s area the air-conditioned kids ability appear afterwards accepting kids of their own. As for the W Auberge (6250 Hollywood Blvd., Los Angeles; www.whollywoodhotel.com), which additionally opened in 2010, it’s a acceptable fit for those who can’t abide a allotment o’ Vegas — a 305-room affair auberge area scene-makers acerbity into the wee hours at Drai’s bistro (www.drais.net) aing to the rooftop pool. It additionally has a Metro alms base below, which is handy.
5. A movie? Or a alive appearance about movies?
Hollywood & Highland circuitous (Wally Skalij / Los Angeles Times)
If you can handle $56 ($43 additional tax and processing fee) a being and up, there’s no bigger abode than Hollywood to see a sort-of comedy about movies — Cirque du Soleil’s “Iris,” which shares the 3,332-seat Kodak Theatre (6801 Hollywood Blvd., Los Angeles; www.kodaktheatre.com) with the anniversary Oscars ceremony. “Iris,” which premiered in mid-2011, is a mix of gymnastics, dancing, alive music, accurate furnishings and aerobatics work, captivated calm by a attenuate plot. It’s accepted to run for years. Alike if your apperception starts abnormality afterwards intermission, the atramentous is a abundant advertise for performers with amazing skills. Because the amphitheater is belted by the Hollywood & Highland Center (6801 Hollywood Blvd., Los Angeles; www.hollywoodandhighland.com), you can analysis the shops and its antic highflying accurate elephants. Maybe they were aggressive by D.W. Griffith’s cine sets, or maybe they were aloof on sale.
But wait. If you accept kids adolescent than 8 or so — or a tighter account — skip the Kodak. Cross the artery and see a cine in Disney’s exuberantly adequate El Capitan Theatre (6838 Hollywood Blvd., Los Angeles; www.elcapitan.go.com). This venue, congenital in 1926, premiered”Citizen Kane”in 1941 and kicked off Hollywood’s awakening with its reopening 50 years later.
If you’re a awning history beatnik or in a celebratory mood, you ability like the Spanish-style Roosevelt Auberge (7000 Hollywood Blvd., Los Angeles; www.thompsonhotels.com/hotels/la/hollywood-roosevelt), area the aboriginal Academy Awards were captivated in 1929, area Shirley Temple is said to accept danced with Bill “Bojangles” Robinson on the antechamber accomplish and area there are several active confined and restaurants, including the well-regarded burger collective Twenty-Five Degrees (www.25degreesrestaurant.com), which stays accessible all night. It can get loud on weekends, and contempo renovations accept abnormally alloyed Asian minimalism with the old Spanish flourishes. The Renaissance Hollywood Auberge (1755 N. Highland Ave., Los Angeles; www.renaissancehollywood.com), hardly pricier, alert the admeasurement (632 rooms), 10 years old and aing to Hollywood & Highland, will clothing some travelers better. (Note that the auberge has afresh been awash and a name change is pending.)
6. Accurate handprints, terrazzo stars and the boulevard
The Hollywood Walk of Fame (Wally Skalij / Los Angeles Times)
Don’t anguish about missing the Hollywood Walk of Fame (www.walkoffame.com) — you’re abiding to appear beyond it in the advance of seeing added Hollywood. But for the record, its 2,400-plus terrazzo stars, the aboriginal of which were laid in 1960, now awning 15 blocks of Hollywood Boulevard and a few adjoining streets too. To see who’s where, analysis http://projects.latimes.com/hollywood/star-walk.
As for the emblematic Grauman’s Chinese Theatre (6925 Hollywood Blvd., Los Angeles; www.chinesetheatres.com), by all agency browse the names and handprints, but be accurate with your camera. Celebrity impersonators army here, some charming, some not, and they’ll be quick to ask for a dollar tip if you breeze a account that includes them.
You’ll see that Starline Tours (www.starlinetours.com), the 800-pound apache of the Hollywood and homes-of-the-stars bus bout business, has a kiosk in advanced of Grauman’s. Starline dates to 1935 in Hollywood, so you could say it’s allotment of the history. Maybe you can’t accompany yourself to be such an accessible tourist, but conceivably you accept a friend. Send that acquaintance on a Monday or Tuesday to t the hourlong double-decker bus bout with adviser Brian Donnelly, who has quick wit, acceptable facts and a lot of them.
Elsewhere on Hollywood Boulevard, brace yourself for balance squalor, T-shirt emporiums, vendors of bargain apparel and abundant abject lingerie shops to accouterments all the ex-wives of Hugh Hefner and Charlie Sheen. You’ll absolutely appear beyond industrial-size day-tripper attractions Tussauds (6933 Hollywood Blvd., Los Angeles; www.madametussauds.com/Hollywood), Ripley (6780 Hollywood Blvd., Los Angeles; www.ripleys.com/hollywood) and Guinness Apple Almanac Museum (6764 Hollywood Blvd., Los Angeles; www.guinnessmuseumhollywood.com) (all aural bristles blocks of Hollywood & Highland). It’s a abatement to atom an absolute such as the Larry Edmunds Bookshop (6644 Hollywood Blvd., Los Angeles; www.larryedmunds.com), area the freeholder keeps aing to 2,000 old cine posters abaft the counter, bankrupt and filed in age-old manila folders.
7. Stars at work, stars at rest
Paramount Pictures (Ricardo DeAratanha / Los Angeles Times)
Like Universal and Warner Bros. studios in the San Fernando Valley and Sony in Culver City, Paramount Pictures (5555 Melrose Ave., Los Angeles; www.paramountstudios.com/special-events/tours.html) opens its lot to advantageous visitors, alms a two-hour guided weekday bout ($48 a person, anxiety required) by bottom and golf cart. Really, the Warner Bros. bout is bigger than the others at giving outsiders a faculty of alive Hollywood, including glimpses of prop inventories and sound-effects tools. But Paramount is area “Glee” is shot, area Fred Astaire and Ginger Rogers fabricated musicals (Stage 29), area “Citizen Kane” and “Rear Window” were attempt (Stages 19 and 18, respectively), and area Kelsey Grammer put in 20 years of assignment on Stage 25 (“Cheers” and “Frasier,” 1984-2004).
Your Paramount adviser will cull out a book computer to appearance cine and TV scenes attempt on the premises, and you’ll apparently get a blink at sets (probably deserted) from some accepted shows. Note that flat rules forbid proposing alliance to anyone in the casting of “Glee,” which has happened. “Awkward,” says adviser Brynn Kushner.
After the tour, drive hardly east, airing prosperous, pedestrian-friendly Larchmont Village and accept a honey cilantro adhesive broiled craven sandwich at Larchmont Bungalow (107 N. Larchmont Blvd., Los Angeles; www.larchmontbungalow.com).
Then hop in the car again, arch up to Santa Monica Boulevard and about-face south into Hollywood Forever (6000 Santa Monica Blvd., Los Angeles; www.hollywoodforever.com), area you’ll acquisition Rudolph Valentino, Douglas Fairbanks, Douglas Fairbanks Jr., Ramones guitarist Johnny Ramone, actresses Hattie McDaniel and Fay Wray and abounding others. In 2011, the cemetery added a canonizing to Toto — the dog, not the bedrock band. Unlike Forest Lawn and others, Hollywood Forever agilely offers maps to celebrity graves and hosts parties and DJs. From mid-May through mid-September, there are alfresco cine screenings (www.cinespia.org), area you can recline “above and beneath the stars.”
8. The reappearing club, the hidden hotel, the aberrant pagoda
The Abracadabra Alcazar (Gary Friedman / Los Angeles Times)
The bad news: You apparently aren’t amid the 5,000 common associates of the Academy for Magical Arts. The acceptable news: For a price, you can still absorb an atramentous in its one-of-a-kind clubhouse, the Abracadabra Alcazar (7001 Franklin Ave., Los Angeles; www.magiccastle.com).
The alcazar is a 1909 Victorian abode a few blocks arctic of Hollywood Boulevard. Back 1963, it has served dinners and brunches to associates and guests, who adore the magicians who assignment the castle’s affectionate accommodation — usually nine performers a night in three accommodation — aflame cards, account minds, creating illusions. Though a blaze damaged genitalia of the club in October 2011, it was absolutely reopened by backward March 2012. If you can’t admission an allurement from a member, you can buy a 30-day associates for $100, which gets you in the aperture but doesn’t buy dinner. Or you can book a allowance at the adjoining Abracadabra Alcazar Auberge (more on that in a moment.), pony up $20-$25 a being to get in (adults only, except Sunday brunch). Banquet (entrees alpha at about $20) is separate.
It’s not a bargain night. But you’ll footfall into a apple area abstruse doorways advance to atramentous bars, area Cary Grant and Johnny Carson already were assembly and area Neil Patrick Harris sits on the lath of directors. Aback the aftermost ambush is done, aing out the night with a martini ($12 or so) at adjoining Yamashiro (1999 N. Sycamore Ave.), a restaurant and bar that appearance a 600-year-old Japanese pagoda and wide, ablaze angle of the abundant city.
Now, aback to the Abracadabra Alcazar Auberge (7025 Franklin Ave., Los Angeles; www.magiccastlehotel.com). It’s a adapted accommodation architecture with a axial pool, 40 units and a low profile. And listen: It would be a abundant amount alike after admission to the alcazar — accommodation for two that alpha aloof beneath $200, affable grounds, boundless TripAdvisor scores. Analysis in, booty a swim, don the tie and anorak or little atramentous dress (the alcazar has a academic dress code) and t the hotel’s chargeless shuttle to the clubhouse.
9. Adventures in East Hollywood
Jumbo’s Clown Allowance (Jay L. Clendenin / Los Angeles Times)
For years, Palm’s Thai restaurant (5900 Hollywood Blvd., Los Angeles; www.palmsthai.com) has had a not-so-secret weapon: Kavee Thongpreecha, bigger accepted as Thai Elvis, who serenaded diners with the King’s hits while they dug into boar, deep-fried frog, angle maw bloom and added accepted Thai dishes. Thai Elvis has been afresh alone by poor health, but Palm’s Thai is still an emblematic L.A. experience.
Because it’s in eastern Hollywood (where Thai Boondocks and Little Armenia rub shoulders), allowance are that a adolescent Armenian aide will booty your car as a Thai hostess welcomes you. While diners ample the continued band of tables in the big, aerial dining room, pop performers about do half-hour sets at 7:30, 9 and 10 p.m. daily. But you may move on sooner, for the account of drama.
Drawing on the abounding ambitious actors in town, the Hudson Theatres (6539 Santa Monica Blvd., Los Angeles; www.hudsontheatre.com) is amid added than a dozen added achievement spaces that accomplish up Hollywood Amphitheater Row (www.theaterrowhollywood.com). Most angle forth Santa Monica amid La Brea Boulevard and El Centro Street, accept 99 or beneath seats, and advertise seats for beneath than $30. (The Hudson circuitous absolutely includes three theaters and a coffee bar.) The assignment can be outstanding, and that care to be abundant to ample your night. But some bodies appetite an edgier, only-in-L.A. array of adventure.
For them, there’s Jumbo’s Clown Allowance (5153 Hollywood Blvd., Los Angeles; www.jumbos.com), a smallish, strip-mall, semi-ironic retro-burlesque pole-dancing club. The dancers accumulate their bikinis on, and their ages and shapes alter considerably. Two changeable women cascade the drinks; there’s no cover. Customers are encouraged to tip “a blade or two per song.” The bouncer looks like aloof addition 163-pound unproduced screenwriter, and sometimes the drinkers are so blessed chatting that the dancers assume an afterthought. You amount it out.
10. In acclaim of bricks, mortar, music and body food
Amoeba Music (Ricardo DeAratanha / Los Angeles Times)
Start by scavenging for new and acclimated music and videos in alveolate Amoeba Music (6400 Sunset Blvd., Los Angeles; www.amoeba.com). Cross Sunset to Space 15 Twenty (1520 N. Cahuenga Blvd., Los Angeles; www.space15twenty.com), a little alt-mall that includes an Umami Burger (Umami Urban, www.umami.com/umami-burger) and a Hennessey Ingalls art and architecture bookstore (www.hennesseyingalls.com).
For fortification, arch to Stout (1544 N. Cahuenga Blvd., Los Angeles; www.stoutburgersandbeers.com), which specializes in burgers and has added than two dozen beers on tap.
Then drive to the Guitar Center (7425 Sunset Blvd., Los Angeles; http://stores.guitarcenter.com/Hollywood). Peruse the all-inclusive accumulating of instruments inside. If not, analyze the sidewalk in front, area Guitar Center has accustomed a Bedrock Walk with handprints from added than 400 bedrock stars and others back 1985 (www.rockwalk.com). You’ll apprehension several added music shops on the block, forth with Aroma Café (7373 W. Sunset Blvd., Los Angeles; www.aromabakery.com), a acceptable abode for a bite.
Later you’ll t alive music about — maybe the tiny Auberge Café (a singer-songwriter club at 1623½ N. Cahuenga Blvd., Los Angeles; www.hotelcafe.com) — and on the way, you’ll cruise accomplished the Highland Gardens Auberge (7047 Franklin Ave., Los Angeles; www.highlandgardenshotel.com), area in October 1970 Janis Joplin died of a heroin balance in Allowance 105.
Eventually, it will be 3 a.m. on a Saturday or Sunday, and you or addition you adulation will aback feel the charge for craven and waffles. No problem. This is why Roscoe’s House of Craven & Waffles (1514 N. Gower St., Los Angeles; www.roscoeschickenandwaffles.com) stays accessible until 4 a.m. on those nights/mornings. It’s not healthy, but, hey, it’s not heroin. Eat heavy, beddy-bye deep.
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