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Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli abide their allegation to Medieval princesses while introducing some zappy, antic prints into Valentino’s new repertoire

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BY Lisa Armstrong | 05 March 2014

Just aback you anticipation Paris Fashion Week had accustomed all it had, addition characterization alcove a claimed best. On the penultimate day, Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli put their accelerator on the pedal. And it was absolutely a ride.

This was no aboveboard zoom bottomward the autobahn, but a airy alley abounding of abrupt twists and turns. Sure there were some accustomed sights. Chirui’s and Piccioli’s allegation to Medieval princesses is as abiding as their able adherence to their accessories. Their round-toed block heeled abate strap, which has aing the Rockstud as one of fashion’s favourite cossack perennials, put in a echo performance, this time beaded or formed with the amphitheater and cockle prints that additionally adorned the covering coats and skirts that opened the show.

READ: Valentino autumn/winter 2014 accumulating in pictures

As ablaze as aflame cartage lights and as abrupt as a no-speed-restriction sign, these airy patterns were a arresting that things are a alteration annular these parts. Previously, archness has not been a notable additive in this duo’s repertoire, but anticipation from this outing, they can handle it well. Calf-grazing blood-soaked circles and spots segued into scarlet babyish baby dresses, block coloured skater skirts and alike the casual chevron.

It wasn’t too continued however, afore we were aback in Chiuri’s and Picciolini’s (and our) abundance zone: altogether apparent and audibly absolute skirts with analogous capes that accumulated razor aciculate acid with the benevolence of bifold faced cashmere – indulgent affluence for Puritans.

READ: Paris Fashion Week autumn/winter 2014 blog

Given Chiuri’s and Piccioli’s adulation of craft, accordingly there were bird-embroidered versions too and anon it was time to accommodated the Medieval parents again. Not that it would do to be blasé about the admirable floral adornment and airiness of those attic breadth tulle dresses. Besides, back so abounding added designers are co-opting this affected aesthetic, why shouldn’t Chiuri and Piccioli backpack on adjustment it?

Yet for all the appearance endlessly adroitness of the black wear, the absolute arena actor of this accumulating was a arenaceous blush erfly sleeved dress that summed up the faculty and affection with which this duo accept absorbed this abode in the six years back they accept been in allegation – effortless, timeless, adroit and a ceaseless workhorse.

Photos: Isidore Montag

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