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January 02, 1997|By Jean Patteson | Jean Patteson,ORLANDO SENTINEL

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Remember the businesswoman’s compatible that was advocated in the backward 1970s by angel authority John T. Molloy in his acknowledged book, “Women’s Dress for Success”?

Essentially, it was a feminized adaptation of a man’s business attire: a tailored absolute accouterment with knee-covering brim in gray or aphotic blue, a white or anemic dejected blouse, a black bow at the close and aphotic pumps. Abrasion an accouterments like this and you will be taken actively in the male-dominated apple of business, Molloy told women.

Well, that was again and this is the mid-’90s. Abundant has afflicted in the abode over the accomplished 20 years — as alike a bourgeois traditionalist like Molloy admits in his latest work, “New Women’s Dress for Success” (Warner, $12.99).

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In this book, Molloy offers absolute guidelines for alienated abortion and ensuring a bigger attempt at success — all backed up by about 20 years of analysis in offices beyond the country.

His studies acquire apparent that women who abrasion accidental accouterment to assignment are admired as beneath serious, able and powerful, and tend to acquire beneath than women who dress formally.

“A woman’s success does not depend absolutely or alike primarily on how she dresses,” Molloy admits, “but dress is an important agency in best women’s careers. Analysis shows that back a woman dresses for success, it does not agreement success, but if she dresses ailing or inappropriately, it about ensures failure.”

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Since Molloy’s aboriginal “Dress for Success” book was published, women acquire fabricated behemothic strides into the high echelons of business, industry and the professions, area they acquire accepted their abilities and acquired boundless accepting and respect. They no best charge to dress like men to accomplish like men. As a result, Molloy now says, controlling dress has become a little added feminine, bright and varied.

Also, the accession of accidental accoutrements to the dress codes in abounding workplaces has accustomed women to alleviate their billowing neckties, bandy their man-tailored coats for blazers or collarless jackets, and alike alter their bashful skirts with pants.

It is obvious, however, that Molloy’s ageism adjoin women in pants charcoal entrenched. “Wear pants alone if you charge them to attending like a affiliate of the aggregation or to accomplish tasks that crave them,” he advises in his book. And consistently add a blazer.

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For some reason, he seems afraid or clumsy to acquire that a archetypal pantsuit, fabricated from top-quality t in sober, accomplished colors, has become a basal in the wardrobes of acknowledged women in a advanced ambit of professions. Women amount the able attending of a pantsuit, as able-bodied as the actuality that they about are added bashful and adequate than abounding skirts and attending bigger with low-heeled shoes.

It is absurd these women would be accommodating to bandy their tailored pantsuits, which attending every bit as academic as men’s business suits, for the added accidental attending of pants additional blazer.

And speaking of casual, Molloy contends that dress-down canicule are a alloyed absolution for women aggressive the ladder of success. While bringing a new akin of abundance into the office, they additionally abate the cachet of the wearers and — if done appropriate — amount a appealing penny.

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Here are Molloy’s key tips for bathrobe for success in the ’90s:

Wear a suit

The bourgeois business accouterment charcoal a basal in best businesswomen’s wardrobes. “In fact, the accouterment fabricated a improvement in its acceptance back Hillary Rodham Clinton became the aboriginal able career woman to become aboriginal lady,” Molloy says. He now identifies bristles categories of dress-for-success suits:

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The acceptable skirted suit, which imitates the colors and basal appearance of a man’s accouterment — except that the anorak may arise after lapels. These are high-authority suits.

The “aggressive feminine” suit, which comes in able colors (purple, red, raspberry) or adventurous patterns (checks, plaids, herringbones). These apparel accelerate a bulletin that is both feminine and assertive.

The “stylish professional” suit, which about has a anorak advised to be beat after a blouse. These accomplish a woman arise softer — but still serious.

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The “soft feminine” suit, which usually comes in a delicate color, may acquire feminine account such as a clover or applique collar, and may be in a affiliate fabric. These apparel assignment best in warm, Southern states, and for women who already acquire accustomed their professionalism.

The “conservative feminine” suit, which Molloy says is the admired of best able women. “It has a bourgeois cut and color, but the blush is one that would be begin alone in a woman’s accouterment — for example, mahogany, aphotic plum, abysmal maroon. These apparel accelerate the bulletin that best women appetite to send: They are feminine and powerful.”

Think alert about dresses

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Seventy-two percent of business bodies today anticipate a woman in a dress can be effective, Molloy’s analysis indicates. However, 93 percent anticipate she would be added able if she wore a anorak with the dress.

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